PATTERN RE-RELEASE: The Bretonbone Top

Bretonbone is a practical, modern layering piece inspired by the classic Breton top. It works up quickly and suits lots of different fibres - cotton for summer, cotton+merino for mid-season, alpaca or wool for winter. The pattern includes options for both DK and aran weight yarns.

First released in Issue 6 of Crochet Now, Bretonbone is now available for individual purchase from my Ravelry store.

Construction
The Bretonbone Top is made in rows of Herringbone Half Treble Crochet from the bottom up in two panels - front and back. The shoulders and neckline are shaped using short rows. Once the front and back panels have been seamed, the cap sleeves are worked in the round directly into the selvedge edges using rows of slipped stitches. Finally, a crab stitch round is worked into the bottom and sleeve hems for a neat finish.

Sizing
XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL) - to fit bust size 76 (86, 96.5, 106.5, 117, 127) cm / 30 (34, 38, 40, 46, 50)"
This top is designed to fit with 5cm positive ease. It finishes on the hips and has a boxy, forgiving style that suits lots of different body shapes. Ideas on how to adapt the pattern to suit your own body shape are included in the pattern.

Materials
Crochet hooks: 4.5mm & 5mm / 7 & H/8 with DK yarn, or as required to obtain gauge; OR
                          4.0mm & 4.5mm / G/6 & 7 with aran yarn, or as required to obtain gauge
scissors
wool needle
Yarn – DK: DROPS Cotton Merino; 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5) balls each in Mustard 15 (A) and Off White 01 (B); 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2) ball(s) in Light Grey 20 (C); OR
Yarn – aran: LANAR Serena 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3) skeins in Muschio 00523 (A); LANAR Ecolana 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3) skeins in Avorio (B); LANAR Big Merino 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2) ball(s) in Grigio Medio (C) 

Total yardage required per size
A & B 720 (720, 960, 960, 1200, 1200) m / 790 (790, 1050, 1050, 1320, 1320) yds  in total
C 120 (120, 120, 240, 240, 240) m / 130 (130, 140, 260, 260, 270) yds

Yarn alternatives
Choose either a yarn that is on the heavy end of DK, or an aran/worsted weight yarn. 

Gauge
a 10x10 cm / 4x4” swatch should consist of 12 rows of 14 stitches in HHTC, using larger hook and measured after blocking

You can purchase the PDF download in US and UK terms from my Ravelry store now.

45SEK (about €4.50, plus VAT if applicable)

The Little Swede

During a Skype call with some Milanese friends last weekend, it became abundantly clear: The little boy who was weaned on Grana Padano and tortellini, who preferred olives over baked beans and didn't try soft play until he was three, had forgotten every word of Italian he ever knew. 

It was inevitable, of course. The Bean was only 2.5 years old when we left Italy. Children forget as quickly as they learn at that age, and when we got here he needed to learn Swedish fast. He has, astonishingly so. He has changed in so many other ways too. Partly of course due to now being a Whole Four Years Old (which comes with special superpowers, don't you know, like running faster and jumping higher. Not being afraid of the dark may need to wait until Five though). But with so many changes to our environment and lifestyle too, it really was inevitable. 

Our Little Italian has, slowly but surely, turned into a Little Swede. 

Messy Hair, Don't Care

Gone are the severe crew cuts, sensible navy blue shoes and crisp shirts favoured by the Italians. Swedes strongly believe in a child's right to express themselves based on who they are, rather than on how society expects them to behave. Adulthood, on the other hand, is very much about conformity, but for now at least the Bean is free as bird.  Nobody would bad an eyelid if he went in to preschool wearing a tutu, and like many Swedish boys his hair is almost never cut. Rather convenient, this openmindedness, because he's decided he wants to grow a pony tail. 

Potatoes, potatoes, potatoes

I now struggle to believe it, but there was a time the Bean did not like potatoes. For 2 years he lived on pasta which had the sauce mixed into it (can you imagine!!!), big chunks of oily focaccia, platters of roast or cured meats, juicy peaches handed to him at our local market. Now? Meatballs. The blandest of cooked hams. The odd cucumber stick. Mountains of potatoes. Can you tell I struggle with this particular change? I have to remind myself: fresh, interesting produce is hard to come by in a country where nothing grows for six months of the year, and anyway the summers do make up for it. In Milan he would never have been able to go foraging for blackberries or go on a school trip to pick and barbeque corn. He now knows not only what elderflower looks like when it's ready to pick but also what to do with it. And in any case: he still appreciates a good olive oil and a chunk of Grana, but won't touch pickled herring. Thank goodness.

All the cosy things

I am not going to mention the H-word (because heaven forbid we over-use it), but with two Scandinavian winters under his belt our Bean has the pursuit of creature comforts down to an art. Soft blankets, handknitted jumpers, long afternoons spent doing nothing but watch films and play trains. It surprises me how sloth-like a 4-year-old can be, but the little face tells me he likes nothing more. 
And on a related note...

Layer up

We fought and fought at first, about the overalls and the wellies and the hats, but now even he knows that if you are going to venture outdoors in Sweden, preparation is everything. Our array of outerwear, all with subtly different levels of fluffiness, warmth and waterproofness, has become vast. Children spend a portion of every school day playing outside, with the lower limit in temperature being about -15C, I think. We have not had to worry about an upper limit yet. 
All this layering, in combination with a more gender-neutral approach to children's clothes, has had a fun side-effect: the opportunity to go really funky.

He picks his own clothes and I love watching how his mind works. At the moment it goes something like: Stripes underneath for warmth. Loud leggings (handmade by a friend of mine) for pizzazz. Soft t-shirt with fun print (this one is by Frugi) because, why not. Appropriate head wear to avoid upsetting your mother. 

Then when you are finally ready to get out there...

Get mucky

Perhaps the biggest change of all has been the Bean's attitude to exploring the outdoors. He still isn't that keen on getting wet. But now, see above. He practically has an armour at his disposal, and with he it he comes home covered in mud from his head to his tippy toes. My vaccuum cleaner doesn't like it much, but after so long sheperding him around concrete, smoggy Milan it makes my heart sing. 

In a few years' time the Bean will start proper school. An ordinary Swedish one, most likely, so I'm quite sure we will have an even more Swedish Swedish boy. Lord help us - just this morning he pointed out: "Mum, you can't say Swedish words properly".  Perhaps he will even learn to eat that herring?

PATTERN + TUTORIAL: Wedged In Sampler Square

In this tutorial I will show you how to crochet the Wedge Stitch. It's a beautiful stitch that seems to float within the edges of the fabric, creating a loose structure with a wonderful drape. It's perfect for things such as shawls, blankets, bedspreads, etc. I've used it in the Window into Window shawl, and these little sampler squares will end up in my Crochet meets Patchwork Blanket.

The wedge stitch is worked over two rows using stitches of increasing height to create a distinctive diamond or “wedge” shape. It grows reasonably quickly and is much less complicated than it looks - if you know how to extend the basic triple crochet (double crochet in US terms) to make it taller, you can do the wedge stitch. 

Any yarn type and weight will work for this stitch. It looks particularly striking when you change colour every two rows, as I've done for these samplers, though any solid, semi-solid or variegated colours will look good too. It's best not worked too tightly, and the work must be blocked properly at the end to open up the stitches. 

Materials
3.0mm and 2.5mm crochet hooks
4-ply yarn (for the photos below I've used DMC Natura Just Cotton in Gris Argent (A), Blue Jeans (B), Ivory (C), and Aswan (D))
tapestry needle

Stitches + Abbreviations
ch – chain
DC – double crochet
HTC – half treble crochet
PUL - pull up a loop
RS – right side
sl st – slip stitch
TC – treble crochet
YO - yarn over

Special Stitches
DTC – double treble crochet: YO x2, insert hook in next st and PUL, [YO and draw through first 2 loops on hook] x3.
TTC – triple treble crochet: YO x3, insert hook in next st and PUL, [YO and draw through first 2 loops on hook] x4.
2TTCtog - 2 triple treble crochet together: *YO 3x, insert hook in next st and PUL, [YO and draw through first 2 loops on hook] 3x; repeat from *, YO and pull through all 3 remaining loops on hook.

Finished Dimensions
10 cm x 10 cm

Difficulty
Confident Beginner to Intermediate

Notes

• This pattern uses UK crochet terms. For a UK to US crochet term conversion chart, see: http://www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk/2013/07/04/uk-and-us-crochet-conversion-chart/
• Unless otherwise stated, turning chains do not count as a stitch.
• For smooth colour changes, add the new colour on the final step of the last stitch of the previous row.

Instructions

With colour A and larger hook, ch 20, turn. DC 1 in 2nd ch from hook, then * ch 6

DC 1 in 2nd ch from hook, HTC 1 in next ch, TC 1 in next ch, DTC 1 in next ch, TTC 1 in next ch, skip 5 ch, DC 1 in next ch; repeat from * to end. Turn.

R2: ch 5 (counts as 1 TTC), then * DC 1 into top of wedge (i.e. the last ch of the prev row). DC 1 in next ch

HTC 1 in next ch, TC 1 in next ch, DTC 1 in next ch, TTC 1 in next ch, skip next DC; repeat from * to end, but replace last TTC with a 2TTCtog in last ch and last DC of prev row. Change to colour B on last step of 2TTCtog. Turn.

R3: ch 1, DC 1 in first st, * ch 6

1 DC in 2nd ch from hook, 1 HTC in next ch, 1 TC in next ch, 1 DTC in next ch, 1 TTC in next ch

skip 5 sts, 1 DC in next st; repeat from * to end. Turn.

R4: rep R2.

Rep last two rows once more with colour C. Change to colour D on last step of last row.

Finishing the square: 
R1: ch 1, DC 1 each st until 1 st remains. [DC 1, ch 1, DC 1 ] in last st.

Do not turn, but work 18 DC evenly down next side. Work [DC 1, ch 1, DC 1 ] on corner. Do not turn, but DC 1 into the bottom of each ch. Work [DC 1, ch 1, DC 1 ] on corner. Do not turn, but work 18 DC evenly down next side. Work [DC 1, ch 1, DC 1 ] on corner, then join to first DC of round with a sl st. Fasten off and cut yarn, do not turn. 

R2: Switch to smaller hook. Attach colour B to any st of Row 1, DC 1 in each st, working [DC 1, ch 1, DC 1 ] around the ch 1 corners. 

Sew in ends and wet block.

Written pattern copyright Eline Alcocer 2017. 
You are welcome to make and use this pattern as you wish, but please do not sell the pattern nor claim the pattern as your own. 
You are welcome to sell items made using this pattern as long as the designer, Eline Alcocer, is clearly credited at the Point of Sale. 
Please link back to this page if you write about the pattern in any way. 
You may not reproduce, either partially or in full, any of the photos or the text contained in this pattern and tutorial without obtaining written permission from me first. 
Thank you and happy crocheting!

PATTERN: Window into Winter Shawl

Some projects just aren't meant to be rushed, are they. I bought the yarn for this shawl in June 2015, started it that autumn, and ripped it all out again in about February last year. I almost gave up at that point, but then decided to redraw the diagram and slowly, ever so slowly it grew. 

And here it is. A triangular shawl with a modern, geometric pattern which takes inspiration from the stark lines, dark skies and glistening snows of the Swedish winters. However, it is just as a much a view out of winter, too: The contrasting border mimics the shape and colour of the winter aconite, a cheerful little yellow flower that is the first to appear after the long, cold months.

You can purchase a copy of this pattern, in either UK or US terms, from my Ravelry store now. 

For the main body of the shawl I used Alpaca Tweed by Lanar. They're based in Italy and a little hard to get hold of elsewhere, but if you do happen to be in Milan one day, you must go there. It is heaven. As is this yarn - it is soft and warm yet light, and has a delightful rust-coloured speckle to it. I teamed it with a little Iloyarn Alpaca Superfine for the border.

If a trip to Italy isn't on the cards, there are lots of lovely tweeds out there that you could use instead. Some that immediately spring to mind are Brooklyn Tweed Loft, Debbie Bliss Fine Donegal or, if you're in Scandinavia too, Sandnes Garn Tweed.

Another idea, though, is to go for a single semi-solid or variegated yarn for the body and a contrasting solid for the border. You won't get the geometric pattern, of course, but you know. Colour changes = ends. I realise some people might not like ends. I'm currently toying with the idea of doing a second Window into Winter in Malabrigo Silkpaca. Yum.

Anyway, without further ado. here are all the pattern details.

Construction 
This triangular shawl is worked flat using the wedge stitch in a C2C (corner to corner) construction. Step-by-step photos on how to work the C2C wedge stitch are included in the pattern. A photo tutorial of the standard wedge stitch (required for the tension square) is available here:

http://www.emmyandlien.com/blog/pattern-tutorial-crochet-wedge-stitch-sampler-granny-square

The border is worked directly into the shawl edges at the end. A colour change diagram is included in the pattern. Of course, colour changes = ends to sew in. If you wish to avoid this, the shawl would look equally beautiful in a solid, semi-solid or variegated yarn.

Sizing 
One size - finished shawl measures approximately 190 x 80 cm (75” x 32”) 
Size can be easily adjusted by adding or removing rows. You can also use a different yarn weight, although remember to change your hook size accordingly too. Final yarn quantities will vary.

IMPORTANT 
To open up the stitches and improve drape, this shawl must be blocked.

Materials 
3.00 mm (D/3) crochet hook, or as required to obtain gauge
scissors
wool needle
Yarn: 
Lanar Industria Alpaca Tweed (sport weight; 80% wool, 20% alpaca; 370m / 404 yds per 100g ball) - 2 balls each in Avio (yarn A) and Naturale (yarn B) 
Iloyarn Alpaca Superfine (fingering weight; 100% alpaca; 183 m / 200 yds per 50g ball) - 1 ball in Gul 7225 (yarn C)

Yarn alternatives 
Use any fingering (4-ply) or sport (5-ply) weight yarn containing a high percentage of wool and/or alpaca for a light yet warm shawl.

Gauge 
4 repeats of wedge st over 4 rows = 12 x 12 cm (4.75” x 4.75”) using 3.00 mm hook after blocking (see tension square instructions on p.X). 
Obtaining the correct gauge is not crucial for this pattern, but please bear in mind that final dimensions will vary if you gauge is wildly different.

You can purchase the PDF download in US and UK terms from my Ravelry store now.

40SEK (about €4.00, plus VAT if applicable)

Cherry blossoms in the snow

As I type this, it is snowing outside my window. Very fine snow, twirling almost vertically in the fierce north-easterly wind. Slow to settle as the ground isn't quite frozen enough at the moment, but that will change in the next couple of days; It is still very much winter here. 

An odd time then, perhaps, to talk about spring designs and flower motifs. Or maybe perfectly timed - I get impatient for light and colour by about the middle of January, itching to cast off the thick, heavy layers and see something other than brown everywhere. Time to begin planning ahead? I don't know about you, but I'm a reactive, impulsive maker by nature. I feel cold and decide to make mittens, or realise I only have 10 days to knit a birthday gift and then just start. 

But that obviously isn't how the fashion industry works, so I finished the samples for spring back in November and right now I'm working on bits and pieces for summer. I find it funny, to be so out of sync with what's going on outside my window, but it's also useful. I'm trying to be more intentional with my making, less impulsive, so that I'll have what I need when I actually want to wear it. 

Here it is, then, one for the spring wardrobe: Hanabira. 

Image credit: Nicole Mlakar for Pom Pom Quartely

A cropped cardigan as whimsical as you can imagine. The flower detail in the colourwork bands in particular involved, literally, a flight of fancy; I cast my mind back to the birthdays I spent living in Japan, every year, when the cherry blossoms came out right on cue (or so it felt to me). "Hanabira" is Japanese for "flower petal". 

The rest of the cardigan is both easy to make and practical to wear. Top down with simple increases and some quick seaming at the sleeves. If you want a longer length on the hem (as in the top photo) or the sleeves, you just keep going before you get to the colourwork. The button band and collar are worked directly into the selvedge edges (there's a ribbing tutorial to accompany this pattern, in case you get stuck). 

The yarn is Ulysse by De Rerum Natura, a non-superwash 100% merino 2-ply (sport) from ethically reared European sheep. It feels properly "sheepy" too - slightly crunchy and much more structured than the heavily processed, slinky superwash merino we seem to have become so used to. I loved working with it and plan to revisit this brand in the future. 

Hanabira is one of nine designs in issue 20 of Pom Pom Quarterly. The whole collection, indeed the entire magazine, is utterly delightful and I'm thrilled to be a part of it. I hear copies are almost ready to be shipped and, in the spirit of planning ahead and all that, I intend to cast on a Bombus or a Melli as soon as it lands in my letter box. You can order your own copy on Pom Pom's order page.

TUTORIAL: Crochet Ribbing pt. One | HTC and slip stitch

When I think about what sets apart my successful crochet projects from the not-so-successful ones (or the absolute disasters, because we all have those), I can come up with a few reasons:

• Wrong yarn - wrong weight, or wrong type of fibre 
• Wrong fit (for garments) - everyone has a different body shape, of course, and knowing enough about what suits you - tailored or boxy? Long or short? - is very important to the ultimate success of a garment. More about that in a later post!
• Poor finishing - ends not securely sewn in, ugly seaming or wrong/lack of ribbing/edging

It’s this last one that I want to focus on today, because a poor finish can really ruin an otherwise well-executed project. It’s the boring bit at the end, I know, but it does make a difference. Ribbing especially can have a huge impact on to whether a garment fits properly, and how well it lasts with frequent wear. 

There are several ways of working crochet ribbing, each with their own characteristics - super-stretchy, or nice and neat, or just easy to do. In the first part of this series on crochet ribbing, I want to show you how to create a tight rib using a combination of HTC (HDC for you US folks) and slip stitches worked in the back loop. 

This ribbing is worked directly into the selvedge edge of a garment and gives a very neat finish that draws in the fabric underneath. I’ve used in quite a few of my garment designs so far, including the Peach Pocket Tunic (pictured below), the Sea Breeze Hoodie and the Hanabira cardigan. 

HTC and slip stitch ribbing

Use it for:
Areas that need to sit snugly on the body with only a little stretch, such as necklines, sleeves edges and hems.

Avoid it when:
You need a very stretchy or flexible edge, such as on hat brims or sock cuffs.

Make it your own:

• Experiment with different hook sizes - a small hook for a very tight and stiff rib, a larger hook for something with more give.
• Increase or decrease the number of repeats - as this ribbing is worked directly into a selvedge edge, you can work more repeats for a straight, looser finish, or fewer to give you a more drawn-in effect (see further notes in step-by-step instructions below).

Materials
3.0mm crochet hook
Yarn: this rib works with any yarn weight or type. The type of fibre in particular influences the look and feel of the rib. For example, linen, cotton and non-superwash wool will be neat and stiff, while a superwash wool or alpaca will have more flexibility.

For this tutorial, I’ve used a cotton yarn in DK weight with a small hook to get a tight rib.

Difficulty Level
Confident Beginner

Stitches + Abbreviations
BLO - back loop only
Ch - chain
HTC - half treble crochet
RS - right side
Sl st - slip stitch
Slst2tog - slip stitch 2 together:insert hook, YO and pull up a loop, insert hook into next st, YO and pull through work and two loops on your hook (see step-by-step photos below) 

Note this tutorial uses UK crochet terms

Instructions

With RS facing, pull yarn through first stitch on edge and ch 6. Turn.

R1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook, HTC 1 to end. 5 sts. 

To attach the ribbing to the body of the garment, slst2tog the next 2 sts: insert hook, YO and pull up a loop, insert hook into next st, YO and pull through work and two loops on your hook. To adjust the tightness of the ribbing, you can either skip a stitch before working the sl2tog (= tighter), or you can just work a single sl st (= looser).

R2: Do not ch 1, skip 1, sl st 1 in BLO to end.

R3: Ch 1, skip 1, sl st 1 in BLO to end. Attach to hem with a sl st.

R4: Repeat R2.

R5: Ch 1, HTC 1 in BLO to end. Attach to hem with slst2og.

Repeat R2-R5 to end.

Copyright notice:

You may not reproduce, either partially or in full, any of the photos or the text contained in this tutorial without obtaining written permission from me first. 
Thank you and happy crocheting!

On woolly birthdays

Ten days before his fourth birthday I decided to make the Bean a celebratory jumper. Because seeing all of Carie's beautiful knits for her three children gave me itchy fingers, and because ten days for a new jumper didn't sound at all unreasonable. Minus three, once I'd factored in the time it took to pick a yarn, order it and have it delivered. 

With six days to go I cast on Flax, a top-down, seamless raglan sweater with a garter stitch panel on the sleeves. It's a free pattern from the "learn to knit" Simple Collection by Tin Can Knits, and makes the perfect piece for those who lack experience or time, or both. Who suffer from boundless optimism and endless casting-on fever... It did take me longer than those six days, but it does fly off the needles, causes minimal headaches, and is ever so cosy on. 

So twelve days later and approximately three seconds after I'd sewn in the last ends, the Bean got to put on his birthday jumper. That was Thursday, five days ago, and he's worn it every day since apart from the one I hid it to get a chance to actually block the thing while he was at school. I think he likes it. 

The yarn I chose is Big Merino Hug by Rosie Green Wool, which made it as much a treat for mum as for the kiddo, really. 100% organic, ethically produced merino in "Ruby". It's buttery soft to knit with, doesn't split and blocks well. Yes, it costs a fair amount, but I've written about this before: in the spirit of leaving a lovely planet for the ones I love, there are some things worth paying for.

My Love: a freshly minted four-year-old who refuses to get a haircut, in some rare January sunshine, wrapped in a squishy merino knit. With crocheted dog ears for extra bonus cuddle factor. 

Oh and then for an extra bonus bonus: Daddy got involved in the posing. Because if you're going to sport a 70s bowl hairdo in 70s decor, well then you need the moves too, don't you?

Colour crushing in Devon

Colour, especially of the eyeball-pleasing saturated kind, is a rare thing in Sweden at this time of year. As I've mentioned before, the diffuse light and stalking shadows do create their own particular beauty, but the predominant hue is brown. The camera mostly hibernates, just like its owner.

Imagine my delight, then, when our Christmas in Devon this year was surprisingly colourful. Look away from the glitter and baubles and oh! The green was still lush, a few flowers already in bloom, SO many pretty houses and boats. 

I'm not sure why I was surprised - although we also live by the coast in the very southern tip of Sweden, a difference in latitude of more than 10 degrees was always likely to leave a bit of a mark on the landscape. And until the post-New Year freeze kicked in, it had probably been a remarkably mild winter, too. Whatever the reason, there was plenty on offer to please the lens. 

Incidentally, one colour I can't get enough of at the moment is blush pink. I think it's just perfect for this time of year; soft enough for winter's mutedness but not so subtle you'd overlook it, pretty and uplifting without yet being too optimistically spring-like (we still have a loooong wait until spring...)

It started with a detail here and there, until I went full-on pink socks.

I finished them just before we saw out the year, and I can't stop twiddling my toes and staring at them. The pattern is Aussie Sunshine by Clare Devine, and I used one skein of Coop Knits Socks Yeah yarn in Ammolite as well as a tiny bit of Danburite. 

But that is by the by. Otherwise our Christmas was quiet and predictable and safe. We ate too much, played games, knitted. Well, I knitted. When the Bean started tripping on the excess attention, sugar and presents, we hauled him outside to look at the boats with (what I think is) his coolest gift: a pair of pocket binoculars. Proper ones, too, not toy ones. 

I also made him his own Lomma Hat, a two-tone version that he surprisingly wanted without a "pompy" on top and didn't take off once all Christmas day. If that red looks a bit lurid, that's because it is, but he marched into our local yarn store and picked it out his very self, so I wasn't going to argue. Foolishly, I argued over how many consecutive slices of M&S penguin-shaped sponge cake were acceptable instead. 

PATTERN + TUTORIAL: Lomma Hat

It's been a while since I did a freebie pattern, don't you think? This chunky hat was inspired by our many trips to a beach town nearby. I love it there no matter what the season but, my goodness, the wind doesn't half go through you for about 10 months out of 12! 

A super-warm hat was needed, the kind you can pull right down over your ears. And, at this dismally dark time of year, you do need a bit of colour to go with the grey too, of course.

The Lomma hat uses the in-the-round version of the Woven Shell stitch. Written instructions for this variation are given below, but you can also find a step-by-step photo tutorial of the flat version here. It's one of those stitches that takes a little practice at first, but which grows quickly once you get the hang of it.

It's a very speedy little make and, as you can see from the photos, I ended up with a nice stack to give away this Christmas! 

While we're talking of giving, there's something I'd like you to consider doing in return for this free pattern. Not for me, but for the thousands of people for whom this time of year isn't necessarily filled with joy and gifts. It would be wonderful if you could make a donation to a charity of your choosing for, say, about €4.00 ($4.00 / £3.35) - the amount I usually charge for a paid pattern - or whatever you can afford. My own charity of choice is Medecins Sans Frontieres, whose medics deliver (often at great personal risk) emergency aid to people affected by armed conflict, epidemics, healthcare exclusion and natural or man-made disasters. You can find the link for making a donation from wherever you are here: http://www.msf.org/en/donate.

You don't have to, of course, but if you do - thank you!

---

Lomma Hat

Materials
5mm (H/8) crochet hook, or as required to obtain gauge
scissors
wool needle
Yarn: DROPS Nepal (65% wool, 25% alpaca; aran; 75m per 50g); 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) balls each in light grey 0500/off-white 0100/goldenrod 2923 OR medium grey 0517/light grey 0500/purple 4434 OR light grey 0500/medium grey 0517/goldenrod 2923 OR medium grey 0517/light grey 0500/medium blue 6220

Yarn alternatives
Any aran weight yarn, such as alpaca, merino or other sheep’s wool will work well for this design. 

Total yardage required
110 (130, 150, 180, 200) m / 120 (145, 165, 200, 220) yds
NB: allow extra if adding pompom

Gauge
12 x 12 cm/5” x 5” = 3 repeats and 6 rows of woven shell pattern (see tension square instructions)

Sizing
Baby (Toddler, Child, Adult Small, Adult Large) - to fit head circumference 35.5 (40.5, 45.5, 53, 58.5) cm / 14 (16, 18, 21, 23) inches
This hat is designed to fit snugly, with up to 5cm/2” negative ease. The brim is very stretchy. Check your gauge to ensure the right fit.
Between sizes? Follow instructions for the largest size closest to your measurement, but go down half a hook size for the brim.

Special stitches (see step-by-step photos at the bottom of this post) 
FHTC – foundation half treble crochet
BPTC - back post treble crochet
FPTC - front post treble crochet
SCDC - standing chainless double crochet
WS st - woven shell st
(see tension square instructions and flat WS tutorial)

Stitches & Abbreviations
beg of rnd – beginning of round
BLO – back loop only
ch –  chain
TC – treble crochet
rnd - round
sl st – slip stitch

Tension square instructions (same as flat WS tutorial)
Ch 21
Row 1: Skip 6. Working into the 7th ch, TC 3,  ch 3. Going backwards, skip 1, then TC 3 in the 5th ch. *Going forwards again, skip 1 from the first 3-TC group and TC 1. Skip 3, TC 3 in the next st, ch 3. Going backwards, skip 1, TC 3. Repeat from * until 2 sts remain. TC 1 in the last ch. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 TC), then TC 3 in the same st. DC 1 around the top of the ch 3 of the woven shell underneath. Skip the whole of the next 3-TC group, then TC 3 in the second (i.e. middle) TC of the next 3-TC group. Ch 3, then go back and TC 3 into the second (i.e. middle) TC of the 3-TC group just skipped to complete the Woven Shell. 
DC 1 around the top of the ch 3 of the woven shell underneath. Skip the whole of the next 3-TC group, then TC 3 in the second (i.e. middle) TC of the next 3-TC group. Ch 3, then go back and TC 3 into the second (i.e. middle) TC of the 3-TC group just skipped. 
DC 1 around the top of the ch 3 of the woven shell underneath. Skip the whole of the next 3-TC group, then TC 4 into the top of the turning chain of the previous row. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 TC), skip the whole of the 4-TC group, then TC 3 in the second TC of the next 3-TC group. Ch 3, then go back and TC 3 into the third TC of the 4-TC group just skipped.
* DC 1 around the top of the ch 3 of the woven shell underneath. Skip the whole of the next 3-TC group, then TC 3 in the second TC of the next 3-TC group. Ch 3, then go back and TC 3 into the second TC of the 3-TC group just skipped. Repeat from * until last st. TC 1 in the last ch 1 space. 
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until 6 rows in total have been worked.

Pattern instructions

Pattern notes

• UK terms

• This hat is worked in the round from the bottom up. Join up each round with a slip stitch.

• Starting chains at the beginning of each brim round do not count as stitches.

• Do not cut colours not needed for next round. After joining with a sl st, sl st into the next st, pull up a tall loop and pass ball of yarn through, pull tight and leave on the inside until needed again.

Brim
With C1, FHTC 48 (54, 60, 72, 78). Join for working in the round with a sl st into the BLO of the 2nd ch, taking care not to twist the work.
Rnd 1: ch 2, *FPTC 1 , BPTC 1; rep from * around. Join.

Rep rnd 1 another 4 (5, 5, 4, 4) times, joining to the first FPTC on the last round.

Woven Shell pattern
WS set-up rnd: With C2, ch 3, *skip 3, TC 3 in the next st, ch 3, skip 1 going backwards, TC 3 around 1st 3-TC group in next st, skip 1 from 1st 3-TC group, TC 1 in next st; rep from * around. Join to 3rd ch of starting ch with a sl st. 

Next rnd: With C3, SCDC around 3-ch between 3-TC groups of first shell of prev row (see step-by-step photos at the bottom of this post). *Skip the whole of the next 3-TC group, then TC 3 in the second (i.e. middle) TC of the next 3-TC group. Ch 3, then go back and TC 3 into the second (i.e. middle) TC of the 3-TC group just skipped. DC 1 around 3-ch; rep from * around. Join last shell to SCDC with a sl st. 
Next rnd: rep previous rnd with C2.

Rep last 2 rnds until a total of 5 (6, 7, 9, 10) rnds of WS have been worked, inc. set-up rnd. Cut yarn, leaving a 20 cm/8” tail for sewing.

Finishing
Thread tail through wool needle and pass through every 3-ch gap. Pull tight to close and weave in on the inside. Weave in remaining ends. If desired, make a pompom using your method of choice and sew onto the top of the hat.

Easy enough once you get going right? Although if you do get stuck, you're always welcome to get in touch. Tag your finished makes #lommahat and #emmyandlien - I love to see them!

Written pattern copyright Eline Alcocer 2015.
You are welcome to make and use this pattern as you wish, but please do not sell the pattern nor claim the pattern as your own.
You are welcome to sell any item made using this pattern, but please credit the designer, Eline Alcocer, at the point of sale.
Please link back to this page if you write about the pattern in any way. 
You may not reproduce the photos, pattern or tutorial, either partially or in full, contained in this post without obtaining written permission from me first. 
If you would like to produce your own photo tutorial, video tutorial or translation of this pattern, please get in touch with me to obtain permission first. 
Thank you!

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Step-by-step photos

FHTC - Foundation Half Treble Crochet

FPTC - Front Post Treble Crochet

BPTC - Back Post Treble Crochet

SCDC - Standing Chainless Double Crochet 

I love Brown. Really, I do.

Just a week to go until Midwinter, and the light starts to creep back again. It will help. 

It's hard not to get bogged down in darkness and murk at this time of year, isn't it? We live in the very south of Sweden, the agricultural rather than the forest and lake-covered part. It is utterly glorious in the summer, but our winters are damp, grey, and muddy. Occasionally we get snow or a really crisp, blue-sky-and-winter-sun sort of day, but not that often. Definitely not often enough. 

Still, when there's an almost-4.year-old who desperately needs some exercise, we do as the Swedes would: don the waterproofs and woollies, head out there. 

I took my camera too, fully expecting to leave it in the bag for the duration of our walk. There would be no colours to light up my heart and lens. 

But it turns out there's beauty in brown too, if you look hard enough. A little haunting, quite skeletal, very damp. But beautiful. All right on our doorstep, and we even found some treasure to take home. Where my colourful knitting was waiting, as always.