YARN REVIEW: Blacker Yarns Lyonesse

What kind of yarn is it?

• Lyonesse by Blacker Yarns is a 50/50 blend of linen and wool (Falkland Island Corriedale or Merino). It's available in both 4-ply and DK weights. The swatches shown use the DK, with a 4mm hook for the crochet swatch and 3.5mm needles for the knitted one. 
• The combination of linen and wool gives Lyonesse a very interesting feel; it's a little stiff at first but soon softens up. Once blocked it really relaxes into a wonderful suppleness. 
• Lyonesse comes in a range of 15 shades, including one undyed neutral. 

Who makes it? 

Lyonesse is made by British company Blacker Yarns, who are part of specialist wool millers The Natural Fibre Company. The company's main focus is on high-quality, natural, UK-sourced and produced yarns. It pays fair prices for all the fleeces it buys, so as to help support British farmers. Animal welfare and appropriate waste disposal are also of high priority. 

Plus Points?

• Each of the fibres used in Lyonesse brings its own characteristic to the finished material. The linen adds crispness and strength, while the wool lends softness and memory. In other words, what you get is excellent stitch definition with just a touch of fluffiness. It also has the typical "give" you would expect from linen, but doesn't go overly baggy thanks to the wool. It retains its blocked shape amazingly well. 
• The shade range isn't huge, but it is versatile in that each colour has a good depth to it and is very wearable. 
• Merino or similar wools can be quite fragile on their own, but the addition of linen makes this much more hardwearing. It is clearly meant to be used for items that will really be worn and loved for a long time. 

Negatives?

• Stiff, dense fibres such as linen and cotton can be quite tough on the joints. Although this yarn is soft to the touch, I did feel fatigue in my fingers and wrist especially when crocheting with it for a long time. 
• Availability of all the shades isn't constant, but depends on when each season's fleeces come in. Blacker are very helpful when you get in touch to ask about their stock though!

What should I use it for?

Lyonesse is a good mid-season to summer yarn and would make beautiful lacy or cabled garments as well as accessories. 

Suggested pattern: Betty Bolero

Note: I was not compensated in any way for writing this review

Tiny Things

I can now count the number of weeks until the Bug arrives on one hand. It's gone so very fast, this time around. There are still a bajillion Emmy + LIEN-related things I want to get finished, and then there is the baby bed linen to get ready, the nappies to wash, the meals to freeze, the Bean to give my undivided attention to, the friends to catch up with while I'm still capable of holding a conversation, the ripped jeans to mend. 

I know, I know. I will be lucky to even achieve a tenth of those things, and the undone things won't ultimately matter anyway (mostly - I do worry about the thing with the Bean. Mothers shall worry). 

What I really need to be doing is to sit. And just be. This time around it's gone faster, but it's also been much more difficult. I feel like there is an earthquake going on in my belly, while in my head there is nothing but fog. My sleep is erratic, my moods even more so. I wake up in the morning feeling sore but alright, happy, positive about what is to come. By 2PM I'm so thoroughly p+ssed off with the muddled thoughts, the screaming hips, the lack of breath and the angry fireball lemons charging up my oesophagus, the general exhaustion and sheer hurtiness that I want nothing more than to press fast forward and get. this baby. out.

But fast forwarding children will never do and, in any case, as a wise friend of mine pointed out: they cause less trouble while they're in. 

While it's still in, then. I'll try to sit and be. My desk is a happy mess of beads and things. I'll knit a little, dream of tiny outfits for those even foggier first weeks. Maybe, IF I get the time, I'll plan ahead for summer and make a dent in the stack of fabrics that's been singing to me for months. The Bug will need rompers and popper vests and teensy leggings, while the Bean could do with some tank tops as well as a new sunhat. He's been asking for a bobble vest for weeks, so I've made a start on that. And I would love a lightweight cardigan for myself, so I'm itching to get the winder out. 

Again, I know. Realism will be required. But a girl can sit and day dream. 

Dribble bib (self-drafted) in Birch Organic | Lil Shepherd vest in Pickles Summer Wool | Teether toy in Birch Organic 

Barley Hat in Pickles Summer wool

A little, as yet unnamed experiment in de rerum nature Ulysse. Nope, I couldn't help myself...

Popcorn Vest in Onion no.4 Organic Wool + Nettle

Mine, all mine:  Malabrigo Sock

YARN REVIEW: de rerum natura Ulysse

What kind of yarn is it?

• Ulysse by de rerum natura is a carded, 100% merino yarn blended from two to three different sheep breeds. 
• It's a 2-ply sport weight yarn with a recommended needle size of 3 to 3.5mm. As a loose crocheter, a 3mm hook works best for me. For knitting, 3.5mm wooden needles gave me 24 sts by 36 rows. 
• As this is a non-superwash merino, it has a great structure with plenty of bounce and crunch. It does not feel like a slinky, shiny superwash merino at all. Rather, it feels soft in a natural, sheepy way. 
• Ulysse comes in a range of 25 shades, including earthy neutrals, soft pastels and a few brights. All shades are available in 50g balls, and the neutrals are also available in 100g hanks. 

Who makes it?

Ulysse is made by French company de rerum natura, who aim to create yarns that respect both the animals and people responsible for producing them. The sheep are reared humanely in France or Portugal, and all yarn processing is carried out as ecologically as possible in France.

Plus Points?

• Where appropriate, Ulysse is blended from the fleeces of both white and black merino sheep before being dyed. The result is an incredible depth of colour that manages to look rich as well as earthy.
• Thanks to its slightly crunchy, firm structure this yarn holds stitches very well and is an absolute joy to work with.
• Being merino, it's still soft and fluffy enough to consider wearing next to the skin. It softens further with time. 
• It feels lightweight yet warm when worn.

Negatives?

• This yarn is reasonably easy to "break" - pull hard enough on a strand and it will come apart. Thankfully it isn't actually splitty, but when joining two strands with a knot, for example, care needs to be taken. I do also wonder how areas such as elbows would stand up to heavy wear. 
• Ulysse should only be handwashed, so you may not want to use it for items that need washing frequently (i.e. baby knits!). 

What should I use it for?

Ulysse is especially suited to colourwork such as fairisle, fine cables or lace. It works just as well for garments as for accessories - think feminine cardies, big beautiful shawls or fairisle beanies. 

Suggested pattern: Hanabira cardigan

Note: I was not compensated in any way for writing this review

when Ruby met Maeve

About a year ago I decided to try being a little less random with my personal makes. Less impulse buying of yarn, more looking at what would go with what is already in my wardrobe, planning a season ahead, that sort of thing. It hasn't come easy to me; I've still ended up with some very last-minute makes (I'm looking at you, 10-day birthday jumper) and many more unfinished ones. My wild optimism about the correlation between the outfits in my head and the ones my hands can actually produce has not been cured or even dampened, I would say.

Still, by the middle of last summer I did have one outfit that ticked all the boxes, that followed all the rules. Well, almost. I had impulse bought the fabric without the faintest notion of what I was going to do with it. But, once I'd spotted both Ruby and Maeve and thought, yes: I planned. I bought the patterns and the yarn.

I made both as per the instructions as opposed to winging it. I properly finished every last seam and tucked in every end, and then I WORE THEM. Now we've seen the last of the snow (I hope) and Spring seems to finally be around the corner (oh, I hope!), I plan on wearing them LOTS MORE. 

Ruby
Ruby is a combined top and dress pattern by Made by Rae. I like her modern aesthetic, and the instructions are extremely well-written with lots of tips. I'd never sewn an adult garment to a pattern before so I was nervous initially, but I didn't have any issues at all. The little gathers at the bust were just enough of a challenge to be interesting, without having me tear my hair out.

You'll have to take my word for it that it does fit me, even though I can't show you now - 7 months pregnant! Stupidly I didn't ask anyone to take pictures when it did, actually, still fit. Next summer! 

The fabrics are both organic cottons - the mustard one being woven and the flowery one voile - by Art Gallery Fabrics, and I love them. I want piles and piles more (but, time and money). 

Maeve

The Maeve shrug is a design by Carie Bostick Hoge at Madder. As a knitwear designer she seem ubiquitous, and with good reason; her work has a classic, timeless feel to it without being stuffy. It is all just so, so wearable. 
This shrug is a good one if you're new to garment knitting. Super-simple shaping on the arms, and then loads of mindless knit stitch for the back and garter stitch for the collar. That collar, that collar... The whole thingis drapey, comforting, and very easy to throw on over pretty much anything.
The yarn is Summer Wool by Pickles Oslo: a blend of 70% organic cotton and 30% merino wool. It's unbelievably soft and smooshy, without either the stiffness of cotton or the overly-processed feel merino can have. Despite the name "Summer Wool" it saw me through most of autumn as well. It's pilling a little bit now, but nothing outrageous. 

So there you have it. When Ruby met Maeve I threw on my favourite old jeans and, of course, of course some mustard yellow shoes. I think they got on rather well, don't you?

On woolly birthdays

Ten days before his fourth birthday I decided to make the Bean a celebratory jumper. Because seeing all of Carie's beautiful knits for her three children gave me itchy fingers, and because ten days for a new jumper didn't sound at all unreasonable. Minus three, once I'd factored in the time it took to pick a yarn, order it and have it delivered. 

With six days to go I cast on Flax, a top-down, seamless raglan sweater with a garter stitch panel on the sleeves. It's a free pattern from the "learn to knit" Simple Collection by Tin Can Knits, and makes the perfect piece for those who lack experience or time, or both. Who suffer from boundless optimism and endless casting-on fever... It did take me longer than those six days, but it does fly off the needles, causes minimal headaches, and is ever so cosy on. 

So twelve days later and approximately three seconds after I'd sewn in the last ends, the Bean got to put on his birthday jumper. That was Thursday, five days ago, and he's worn it every day since apart from the one I hid it to get a chance to actually block the thing while he was at school. I think he likes it. 

The yarn I chose is Big Merino Hug by Rosie Green Wool, which made it as much a treat for mum as for the kiddo, really. 100% organic, ethically produced merino in "Ruby". It's buttery soft to knit with, doesn't split and blocks well. Yes, it costs a fair amount, but I've written about this before: in the spirit of leaving a lovely planet for the ones I love, there are some things worth paying for.

My Love: a freshly minted four-year-old who refuses to get a haircut, in some rare January sunshine, wrapped in a squishy merino knit. With crocheted dog ears for extra bonus cuddle factor. 

Oh and then for an extra bonus bonus: Daddy got involved in the posing. Because if you're going to sport a 70s bowl hairdo in 70s decor, well then you need the moves too, don't you?

Colour crushing in Devon

Colour, especially of the eyeball-pleasing saturated kind, is a rare thing in Sweden at this time of year. As I've mentioned before, the diffuse light and stalking shadows do create their own particular beauty, but the predominant hue is brown. The camera mostly hibernates, just like its owner.

Imagine my delight, then, when our Christmas in Devon this year was surprisingly colourful. Look away from the glitter and baubles and oh! The green was still lush, a few flowers already in bloom, SO many pretty houses and boats. 

I'm not sure why I was surprised - although we also live by the coast in the very southern tip of Sweden, a difference in latitude of more than 10 degrees was always likely to leave a bit of a mark on the landscape. And until the post-New Year freeze kicked in, it had probably been a remarkably mild winter, too. Whatever the reason, there was plenty on offer to please the lens. 

Incidentally, one colour I can't get enough of at the moment is blush pink. I think it's just perfect for this time of year; soft enough for winter's mutedness but not so subtle you'd overlook it, pretty and uplifting without yet being too optimistically spring-like (we still have a loooong wait until spring...)

It started with a detail here and there, until I went full-on pink socks.

I finished them just before we saw out the year, and I can't stop twiddling my toes and staring at them. The pattern is Aussie Sunshine by Clare Devine, and I used one skein of Coop Knits Socks Yeah yarn in Ammolite as well as a tiny bit of Danburite. 

But that is by the by. Otherwise our Christmas was quiet and predictable and safe. We ate too much, played games, knitted. Well, I knitted. When the Bean started tripping on the excess attention, sugar and presents, we hauled him outside to look at the boats with (what I think is) his coolest gift: a pair of pocket binoculars. Proper ones, too, not toy ones. 

I also made him his own Lomma Hat, a two-tone version that he surprisingly wanted without a "pompy" on top and didn't take off once all Christmas day. If that red looks a bit lurid, that's because it is, but he marched into our local yarn store and picked it out his very self, so I wasn't going to argue. Foolishly, I argued over how many consecutive slices of M&S penguin-shaped sponge cake were acceptable instead. 

All the Knitted Things | a year of learning, mistakes and epiphanies

About a year ago, on a dark and wet autumn afternoon not dissimilar to today's, I decided to start knitting. I had "learned" at school as a child, but all I remember of the experience are the sweaty hands and the angry tears. Even then, crochet and sewing were much more my thing. 

And so it might have stayed, if I hadn't turned crocheting things into a job. Though I still adore crochet, I can't relax with it anymore. I feel guilty if I take time to make something that I won't release as a pattern. I also do get fed up with it when I've done nothing but pore over the maths behind it for an entire day. I needed something else to unwind with (I get too angry with the sewing machine for it be sewing). 

So I got a few supplies, took to YouTube (I like Very Pink's videos because they're short and clear), and started knitting. Four hours later I was surprised to find myself with a cracking headache and a sore neck - who knew you could grip a couple of sticks that hard? I didn't have much of a Knitted Thing to show for those four hours either, until a kind soul on my facebook page suggested I try circular needles. What a revelation! It turns out that my hands, used to short crochet hooks as they are, were much happier with those than with ordinary straight needles. I was off. 

I haven't really stopped since. I love it for so many reasons. It (eventually) became relaxing, I can make a wider range of wearables for my family. I have another excuse to buy yarn. It's done wonders for my otherwise insatiable drive for perfection - when there are no deadlines looming, no reputation at stake, I can just let little mistakes go.

And boy, have I made mistakes. I've really struggled with tension, I've unsuccessfully tried to combine yarns of different weights, I've failed to grasp the importance of a stretchy cast-on or a nice, tight rib, I've I've I've... and that's before we even talk about the dropped stitches or the wobbly edges "fixed" with a sneaky crochet slip stitch. There is nothing quite like learning an entirely new skill as adult to cure you of perfectionism, really. 

Also, I have learned so much about pattern writing and garment construction, which has in turn benefited my crochet design skills hugely. The simple truth is that the crochet garment pattern industry is really behind knitting, both in terms of quality and diversity. There are clear signs that things are changing though, and I like being able to contribute to that trend confidently. 

Above all though, knitting has just been fun. I thought it would be nice to show you some of the things I've made (three have flown the nest, so I couldn't photograph them. Note to self: photograph before gifting), and share the patterns and yarns for each. So here it is, my year in Knitted Things.

The Statement Scarf
Pattern: Mollie Makes issue 61
Yarn: Alpaca Tweed and Big Merino by Lanar Emporio
Skills Learned: increases and decreases, how to make really pommy pompoms (the answer: buy a pompom maker)

Thoughts: Great beginner pattern, don't try to mix yarn weights, oh how this is soft and warm! 

Rye Socks
Pattern: Tin Can Knits, The Simple Collection
Yarn: Vinnis Colours Bimbi (discontinued)
Skills Learned: how to sock! This patterns comes with a great step-by-step blog post. 

Thoughts: Really good collection of beginner patterns, DPNs are not that scary, whoever invented the Kitchener stitch must have been on crack at the time.

Another Plain Vest
Pattern: Pickles 
Yarn: Vinnis Colours Bimbi (discontinued)
Skills Learned: armhole shaping, stockinette stitch practice

Thoughts: Need to work on getting an even tension! 

Milo
Pattern: Georgie Nicholson at tiKKI
Yarn: Vinnis Colours Bimbi (discontinued)
Skills learned: top-down seamless construction

Thoughts: Interesting construction and fun to make. Comes up a little boxy for my skinny child so next time I need to go down a size but make it longer.

Clayoquot Toque
Pattern: Tin Can Knits, Road Trip
Yarn: Vinnis Colours Bimbi (discontinued)
Skills learned: fairisle

Thoughts: Oh my god I can do fairisle! Just. Need to work on getting a tighter rib, too. 

London Skies
Pattern: Clare Devine, The Travel Trio
Yarn: Malabrigo Sock
Skills learned: twisted rib

Thoughts: Actually, I love knitting socks (but the next pair will be in a kid's size because these took aaaaages)

Next up are many, many more socks to see us through the winter, and then hopefully I'll find time to make a stack of soft baby knits before the arrival of our Bug in the spring. If you want to have a look at what I've got my eye on, check out my knitwear pinterest board. I think I'd need a few lifetime to do all the cardigans, but still - Such fun!

BOOK REVIEW: 35 Crocheted Bags by Emma Friedlander-Collins

There is something so hands-up-in-the-air, so YAY about your instabuddies and crochet cohorts achieving great things, like getting a local shop to sell their wares or publishing an entire book. Emma Friedlander-Collins, who you might also know from Steel & Stitch or Crochet Girl Gang fame, has just gone and done the latter (for the third time, no less!): 35 Crocheted Bags is out. I love Emma's work so when the opportunity came up to review a copy, I jumped at it. 

35 Crocheted Bags is divided into 3 chapters:
chapter 1 - totes and holdalls
chapter 2 - bags and handbags
chapter 3 - in your bag (small items like purses, phone sleeves and so on)

Each design includes all the essentials you would expect: beautiful, clear photographs, pattern information, detailed written instructions, graphs where required. In addition, Emma has included a sweet little introduction to each item, explaining what inspired it and how she might use it herself. 

The book covers an impressive range of styles and colour palettes. Emma's signature look - bright colours and fun, retro designs (I think the girl has a thing for skulls!) - is unmistakably there, but you'll also find more muted colours and minimalist styles. 

The same goes for the range of "bag types". There are frivolous clutches, sensible shoppers, and ultra-practical little purses and wallets. Below are some of my favourite patterns from each chapter.

the spring shopper

the mini satchel

the foxy crochet carry case

...and my absolute favourite, the apple shoulder bag! 

The book also includes a "techniques" section. It covers everything from basic crochet stitches, tapestry crochet, and blocking your pieces, to sewing a fabric lining and attaching buttons. As a result, 35 Crocheted Bags really is suitable for any level of crochet (or sewing!) skill; Even a complete beginner should find a few patterns to get stuck into straight away.

All in all, it's a fabulous book full of patterns that look like they'd be great fun to make, but also to wear and use. Now I'm off to make that apple bag!

35 Crocheted Bags by Emma Friedlander-Collins is published by CICO Books, and is available now for £12.99.

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Disclosure: I was sent a copy of 35 Crocheted Bags for the purpose of this review, but all words, photos and opinions are my own. 

YARN REVIEW: MoYa Whisper

What kind of yarn is it?

• MoYa Whisper is a  100% organic cotton. It's a standard Double-Knitting (DK) yarn, with a recommended hook size of 3.5 to 4.0 mm (needle size 3 to 4 mm). For a loose crocheter like me, 3.5 mm is spot on.
• This yarn is hand dyed, so each ball has its own unique colour gradation. The peach shade pictured above ranges from a very light baby pink to a dark raspberry. However, each ball within a dye lot has the same base colour, so they do of look good together. 
• The colour range includes 19 powdery shades, with a good number of neutrals and a few delicious brights thrown in.

image credit: scaapi.nl

Who makes it?

MoYa Yarn is based near Cape Town in South Africa. The company is run by a mother and daughter team, who specialise in hand-dyed, unique yarns.

Plus points?

• MoYa Whisper has a high twist, meaning it absolutely does not split. When you're doing fiddly stitches such as puffs, this is a godsend!
• Like all cotton yarns it's fairly dense, but it still feels soft and supple to work with. I've found it softens up more over time, too.
• The colours are to. die. for.
• It's organic! 

Negatives?

My only complaint is that MoYa yarns are still a little tricky to get hold of in some parts of the world. However, I know its distributors as working hard to change this. For European stockists you can check Scaapi's website, and the Australia & New Zealand market is covered by intambo. 

What should I use it for?

MoYa whisper is perfect for baby and children's items such as blankets, sweaters, hats, etc. Even though cotton is usually recommended for wash cloths and the like, I wouldn't use this yarn for those - it's just too nice! 

Suggested pattern: Peach Pocket Tunic

Disclosure: I received one ball of MoYa Whisper as a sample. The decision to write this review, and all opinions and words included in it, are my own.

Sea Water, Sun and Yarn

Yesterday I handed in a stack of autumn/winter design proposals. Now I just have one or two more things to try out for the Emmy + LIEN label, and then I think I can draw a line under all things dark and wintry. Only until the sample making starts, of course, but the initial head-scratching part is done. The result: a stack of swatches. About a month's worth of work. Doesn't look like much does it?!

One late summer design has snuck in there, and I wanted to pull it out for a little sneaky peek. And a yarny drool. 

Meet my new crush: Pickles. They're based in Oslo and, oh my, don't they ever produce deliciousness. I ordered two types (for now!), Summer Wool and Thin Organic Cotton. 

Summer Wool consists of 70% organic cotton and 30% fair trade Peruvian merino. Plant-dyed, entirely scrumptious, and swiftly set aside for a knitted cardigan for Yours Truly (more on that another day). 

Thin Organic Cotton isn't actually that thin - it works up almost like a worsted weight rather than a DK - but it is very lovely. It feels much softer than 100% cottons usually do, and so it's perfect for a summer to mid-season vest design I've had in mind. Though I normally get lead times spectacularly wrong, this *should* be coming out fairly soon. Swatch done, colours picked, mood board fun had. First test subject: the Bean (though I think it'll be a child to adult pattern - I want me some of this too!).

I'm waiting for the rest of the yarn I need to make up the sample to arrive. I settled on this muted "sea water" blue, and added a yellow called "sun". Sounds like a perfect summer of making to me. 

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Just so you know: I have not been compensated in any way for writing this post.