SIZES 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) {6, 7, 8, 9, 10}
Finished circumference at bottom hem:
81.5 (91.5, 102, 112, 122) {132, 142, 152.5, 162.5, 172.5} cm /
32 (36, 40, 44, 48) {52, 56, 60, 64, 68}”
CONSTRUCTION
FOGLIETTI is worked mostly seamlessly from the bottom up. After completing the lower body, the fronts and back are worked separately and joined at the shoulders. By picking up stitches along the selvedge edge of the upper body and using a nifty little joining trick to ensure the “up and down” stitch pattern is maintained correctly, the dolman sleeves are worked seamlessly in the round. The pattern includes options for creating cap sleeves, cropped sleeves, or loooong billowing sleeves. The collar is worked separately and incorporates short row shaping at the shoulders and V-neck to ensure a great fit. It is seamed on at the end (this, and closing up the shoulders, is the only bit of seaming required!).
SHAPE & FIT
FOGLIETTI is a drapey, loose-fitting garment which can be worn open-fronted or closed with a shawl pin. It is intended to sit below the hip at the back, while the front is cropped and asymmetrical to create a faux “French tuck”. The collar is quite wide, and the shoulders are dropped to show off the lace. This garment also has deep underarms with a beautiful curve and a ribbed cuff that can be folded if desired.
CHOOSING A SIZE
FOGLIETTI doesn’t use the standard “bust circumference” measurement to determine size. This is because the deep armhole cut on the sleeves give you plenty of ease built in around the upper torso. Instead, to find your size this design encourages you to:
(get to) know your overall body shape
think about how you’d like to wear this garment.
The pattern includes a step-by-step guide to choosing a size, as well as some brief explanations on what might work for different body shapes.
YARN
The Fibre Co. Cumbria Fingering (fingering weight; 60% Merino wool, 30% Masham wool, 10% mohair; 300 m / 328 yds per 100g skein) - Threlkeld
VEST - 3 (3, 4, 5, 5) {6, 6, 7, 8, 9} skeins
CARDIE (cropped sleeves) - 4 (4, 5, 6, 6) {7, 8, 9, 10, 11} skeins
CARDIE (long sleeves) - 5 (5, 6, 7, 8) {9, 10, 11, 12, 13} skeins
Note on the featured yarn: Although this is labelled as a fingering weight yarn, I found it behaved much more like a sport weight. It’s plump, strong, and has a slight halo. A classic fingering weight (something with 400 m / 437 yds per 100g) would give quite different results (see also “yarn alternatives” below).
Yarn Alternatives
This garment is designed for a heavy fingering to sport weight yarn. The gauge on the “up and down” stitch is fairly loose to create good drape, so for best results use a non-superwash fibre with a natural halo (i.e. something that looks a bit fuzzy) and which will bloom with blocking. Otherwise, any fibre with a soft handle and a gentle drape will produce good results. Holding together a strand of lace and a strand of mohair, or using a sport weight alpaca on its own, would all work very well.
Superwash wool in particular will produce a lighter, more translucent garment. If using a (blend with) plant-based fibre such as cotton or linen, or a superwash wool, consider shortening the length of the body and the sleeves by 2cm /½” to avoid excessive stretching over time.
In all cases, I recommend you always store your cardigan flat rather than on a hanger.
Yardage required
VEST - 900 (900, 1200, 1500, 1500) {1800, 1800, 2100, 2400, 2700} m / 990 (990, 1315, 1640, 1640) {1970, 1970, 2300, 2625, 2955} yds of sport weight yarn
CARDIE (cropped sleeves) - 1200 (1200, 1500, 1800, 1800) {2100, 2400, 2700, 3000, 3300} m / 1315 (1315, 1640, 1970, 1970) {2300, 2625, 2955, 3330, 3610} yds of sport weight yarn
CARDIE (long sleeves) - 1500 (1500, 1800, 2100, 2400) {2700, 3000, 3300, 3600, 3900} m / 1640 (1640, 1970, 2300, 2625) {2955, 3330, 3610, 3940, 4265} yds of sport weight yarn
HOOKS, NEEDLES + NOTIONS
3.5mm hook, or as required to obtain gauge
Wool needle
2 removable stitch markers
GAUGE
17 sts x 17 rows = 10 cm / 4” in Up & Down stitch, measured after wet blocking.
21 sts x 12 rows = 10 cm / 4” in HTC 3rd loop ribbing, measured after wet blocking.
One rep of Leaf Lace pattern to measure 8.5 x 5.5 cm
Note: both the ribbing and the lace pattern are very stretchy, so measuring gauge is not an exact science. You will be able to block them (quite aggressively if necessary) to your desired measurements. On the other hand, getting both the row and stitch gauge for the U&D stitch right is important.
TECHNIQUES TO ENJOY
Foundation stitches
Short rows
Increasing & decreasing
Filet lace
HTC 3rd loop ribbing
Seaming
PATTERN INCLUDES
Clear written instructions in UK terms
Stitch diagrams
Professionally tech-edited & test-crocheted instructions
UK to US term conversion chart
Step-by-step instructions for measuring, and choosing a size & fit
Step-by-step illustrations of the garment construction method
Two PDF files: one mobile-friendly version, and one easy-print/tablet version
SPECIAL THANKS
My deepest gratitude to The Fibre Co for providing yarn support, my editor Deb, and all the lovely testers who gave their time.
SHARING IS CARING
Share your makes using the #foglietticardigan and #emmyandlien hashtags, and tagging @emmyandlien on social media.
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With this first part of the Balter Collection I present four beautiful and versatile crochet patterns - two shawls, one vest and a cowl. All the designs are made in Nutiden yarn by Höner och Eir, a gorgeous unspun yarn produced in Sweden. If you’re new to unspun, the Balter eBook includes a section with tips on how to work with it as well as how to substitute it for a different yarn.
| SHOALS AND SHOALS SHAWL |
ONE SIZE
Length 210 cm / 82.5”
Width at widest point 55 cm / 21.5”
CONSTRUCTION
The Shoals and Shoals shawl has a long, pointed oval shape. It starts with just a few stitches at one tip, increases to its maximum width, and is then worked straight before decreasing to the other tip. Throughout the shawl, the borders are made up of ribbed short rows. The length is easily adjusted by making the middle section longer or shorter.
YARN
Honer och Eir Nutiden (fingering/sport weight; 100% unspun wool) in STILLA
Quantity - 300g
Yardage required
Approx 1500 m / 1640 yds of heavy fingering/sport weight yarn.
HOOKS, NEEDLES + NOTIONS
3.5 mm hook, or as required to obtain gauge
3 removable stitch markers
Wool needle
Recommended but not essential: blocking wires
| MEADOWFULL VEST |
SIZES 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) {6, 7, 8, 9, 10}
Finished chest circumference:
80 (92, 101, 112, 120) {128, 136, 144, 152, 160} cm /
31¼ (36, 39¾, 44, 47) {50¼, 53½, 56½, 59¾, 63}”
Shown in size 3 with no ease
CONSTRUCTION
MEADOWFULL is worked in pieces and assembled with visible, crocheted seams. The front and back are worked from side to side, with a floral-inspired lace panel incorporated into the front. Shoulder shaping and a crew neck collar are worked directly into the selvedge edges of each piece (pattern includes variation for a turtleneck collar). The two pieces are then crocheted together at the shoulders and sides.
Note: all crocheted seams can be replaced with sewn seams if desired.
YARN
Honer och Eir Nutiden (fingering/sport weight; 100% unspun wool) in GLIMT (cream) or TUNNET (light grey-green) held double
Quantity - 225 (250, 300, 350, 400) {450, 500, 575, 650, 725} g
Yardage Required
720 (800, 960, 1120, 1280) {1440, 1600, 1840, 2080, 2320} m / 790 (880, 1050, 1230, 1400) {1580, 1750, 2020, 2280, 2540} yds of sport weight yarn, held double
OR
360 (400, 480, 560, 640) {720, 800, 920, 1040, 1160} m / 395 (440, 525, 615, 700) {790, 875, 1010, 1140, 1270} yds of worsted weight yarn on its own
HOOKS, NEEDLES + NOTIONS
4.0mm and 4.5mm hooks, or as required to obtain gauge
2 removable stitch markers
Wool needle
| SMOKESCREEN SHAWL |
ONE SIZE
Width at widest point - approx. 170cm / 70”
Depth - approx. 81.5cm / 32”
CONSTRUCTION
Smokescreen is an asymmetrical trapezoid; A rectangle with one long, pointy side. It’s worked sideways, starting from the shortest edge and increasing along the diagonal edge to the tip. The size is easily modified - just work fewer or more pattern repeats on the body of the shawl.
YARN
Honer och Eir Nutiden (fingering/sport weight; 100% unspun wool) in BERTAGEN (dark grey sample) or OMGE (dark blue sample)
Quantity - approx. 300g
Yardage required
Approx 1200 m / 1320 yds of heavy fingering/sport weight yarn
HOOKS, NEEDLES + NOTIONS
3.5 mm hook, or as required to obtain gauge
2 removable stitch markers
Wool needle
Recommended but not essential: blocking wires
| SAUNTERING COWL |
Sizes 1 (2) : fingering (DK)
Circumference 60 (60) cm / 23.5 (23.5)”
Height 30 (35) cm / 12 (14)”
Note: Both the fingering and DK weight versions are designed to be the same width. The fingering weight version is slightly shorter. The height for either version is easily adjusted by increasing or decreasing the number of pattern repeats. See pattern notes for instructions on how to adjust the circumference.
CONSTRUCTION
The sauntering cowl is worked in joined rounds from the bottom up. Once the body and top edge are finished, the cowl is turned upside down so as to work a matching edge into the bottom.
YARN
Honer och Eir Nutiden (fingering/sport weight; 100% unspun wool)
Quantities:
Fingering Weight version - 40g of Flisselin (A - light grey) / 40g of Brygd (B - reddish brown) / 30g of Gyllengra (C - ochre)
DK Weight version - 45g of Duvkulla (A - white) / 45g of Gyllengra (B - ochre) / 35g of Mogen (C - peach)
Yardage required
Fingering Weight version
Colour A - 160m / 175yds
Colour B - 160m / 175yds
Colour C - 120m / 135yds
DK Weight version
Colour A - 180m / 200yds
Colour B - 180m / 200yds
Colour C - 140m / 155yds
HOOKS, NEEDLES + NOTIONS
3.5 mm (fingering weight version) or 4.5 mm hook (DK weight version), or as required to obtain gauge
1 removable marker
Wool needle